Christophe Prothon
Architecture, Luxury and Merchandising
"Architects have a role to play in a business' brand strategy."
Christophe Prothon, an architect who holds a Master's degree in Architecture, is a project manager for the prestigious House of Berluti where he designs and builds retail stores worldwide and upgrading existing outlets. Presently, Berluti owns sixteen retail stores and there are twenty-three franchises worldwide. "Architects have principles about the way the build. But when it comes to building retail stores, the theatrical, spectacular and transient dimension trumps these principles. I have to constantly juggle with these two parameters," he explains. In fact, while it comes to a luxury brand architects have to take into account all aspects of merchandising – which refers to the display of products in a retail store in such a way that it stimulates interest and entices customers to make a purchase. Architects' play a central role because they serve as an interface between various divisions (marketing, communications, procurement and production) and coordinates the work of contracts in France and worldwide. "Designing a retail store without knowing the merchandising fundamentals is, to my mind, illogical. When I began in this position, the first thing I did was ask for a product list and the product rankings," says Christophe who also has spent a few days in a store to get a sense of how customers perceive the products and negotiate certain constraints such as trying on shoes and going to the cash register. "It is of paramount importance to respect our high-income clients' desire to be treated with tact; our response to their wishes must seem seamless and natural," calmly explains Christophe. When listening to him as he explains with such ease the complexities of the fashion industry, one cannot help wondering what Christophe's background is. How did he manage to incorporate the distinctive features of architecture with those of luxury?
Some summer jobs can influence the career choices that people make more than you would think. Christophe is a good example of this axiom. As a student at the Lumigny School of Architecture in France, he managed to land a job as a volunteer architect at the Hyères Fashion Festival. For three years, Christophe learned the ropes of putting together big events such as fashion shows and collection presentations. "It was great to work with him because he leaves nothing to chance; even the paper for the invitations has its importance," he explains still impressed. Christophe had other work to do, though, like his school work which was very different from the glitter of fashion. His graduation architectural project focused on the opening up the historic neighborhood known as the "Panier", a district in the harbour of Marseille. And, without realizing it, his plan, which consisted of anchoring the past to modernity, was already symbolic of his future career path. In 1997, after graduating, the budding architect decided to move to Paris.
At the end of this 90s, architectural firms started to use computers, thereby radically changing the way they do their work. For once, young architects were in demand. "Those who knew how to use AutoCAD always found work, but they no longer did design, just technical work," comments Christophe. This was to be his case. After a string of short-term assignments working on submissions to competitions for various architectural firms, Christophe started to lose faith. "I really was not into it," he admitts honestly. It was at that point that he crossed paths with the renowned theater decorator François de Lamothe who was looking for an assistant to help him on a play directed by Robert Hossein. "Sorry, wrong number" was the French adaptation of an American suspense film noir. Film noir describes stylish crime dramas, particularly those that emphasize stylized lighting effects. "I had learned to light up a space and objects and to create ambiance.... It's fairly complicated because all the elements have to be clearly visible by the entire public," says Christophe.
Once the play was over, Christophe found himself back where he started: working for architectural firms! But lady luck was still on his side and reared her head again about a year later. One of his friends convinced him to apply for a job at Lalique. "I wasn't really enthusiast in the beginning because the job description wasn't very clearly defined. But, finally, each party said: 'Why not an architect ? " remembers Christophe. His instinct appears to have served him well as he was to become one of leading people to develop merchandising in this luxury industry—a practice that has grown considerably over the past decade. "Everything had to be done: set up a store window-dressing program. We had some fifty sales outlets to manage but with no budget earmarked. That meant we needed to modernize the way we worked," explains Christophe enthusiastically. However, the young architect is not an extremely ambitious wheeler and dealer who wants to wipe the slate clean. "If these great houses are where they are today it is because they managed to perpetuate a tradition and expertise well before I came along," he explains humbly. Christophe has started working on the firm's brand image in order to create consistency across the various sales outlets. "The concept has to be understandable all the while remaining flexible in order to incorporate therein the specific features of each store," he says. Gradually, sales are growing and so too are the positive effects of press coverage. What is more, he is starting to get recognition for his work: he now has his own dedicated budget and team. "Soon as the studio designers begin working on new products, we start working together on product strategy, lighting and promotion. Suggesting ideas and being involved in the launch strategy of a new collection is one of the things that I liked best about working for Lalique," he explains.
In 2008, Berluti had a position open for an architect. Christophe applied. "I was being given the opportunity to redefine the concept of the retail stores, which allowed me to spend 80% of my time on architecture and 20% on merchandising—it was a wonderful opportunity," he says. "In addition, the house has a very international focus," he adds. These days, Christophe designs and oversees the building of the company's new retail stores in France and abroad. "Now, I can find a good supplier anywhere in the world," he said earnestly. What he hadn't planned for, though, is his close working relationship with artisans. "We work on lots of things together and it reminds me of my work in the theater. We can polish wood to make it look old or find alternative ways of coloring stain glass." From theater to fashion to luxury, Christophe Prothon has managed to make the world of appearances his daily reality.
What inspires him? "In terms of architecture the Swiss architects Herzog & De Meuron for the materials they use, Richard Serra's sculptures, Andy Goldsworthy's art and Jiame Hayon's designs and humor."